What's included
- Stumps of any size, single or across a whole parcel
- Ground below grade so the area can be mowed or planted
- Deeper removal and root excavation where a structure or paving follows
- Grindings removed or left to backfill, as you prefer
- Common as a follow-on to clearing and storm work
How far down is far enough
For a lawn or pasture, grinding a few inches below grade is generally sufficient — enough that a mower passes over it and grass can establish across the top. For planting, more depth is wanted so there is soil rather than wood where roots need to go. For anything structural — a slab, a footing, a driveway, a fence line that has to stay plumb — grinding is often not the right operation at all, because it addresses the stump while leaving the lateral root system in place to decay.
That distinction is worth insisting on in writing, because grinding is cheaper than excavating and it is easy to buy the wrong one. Where a structure follows, the root mass has to be removed rather than reduced. See site prep and grading for what that involves.
What happens to the grindings
Grinding produces a volume of chip and soil mixture considerably larger than the stump appeared to be. Left in place it backfills the hole and settles over the following months, usually needing topping up before the area is finished. Removed, it leaves a clean hole to be backfilled with soil — the better option where turf or planting is going in, since wood chips and growing conditions are not natural allies.
Across a cleared parcel, stump grinding and land clearing are usually sequenced together rather than bought separately, and the same walkover should settle both. Where clearing was done by forestry mulching, remember that the method deliberately leaves roots — grinding afterwards addresses the visible remainder, not the root system.